Quick answer: bouldering grade conversion chart

Here is a practical approximate conversion between common bouldering ratings. Expect overlap between grades, especially around the middle and top end of the scale.

What is bouldering rating conversion?

Bouldering rating conversion is the process of comparing one bouldering grade system to another. The most common comparison is between the V-scale and the Fontainebleau system, often shortened to Font grades. If you climb in the United States, you probably see V0, V3, V7 and V10. If you climb in Europe or read international guidebooks, you may see 6A, 7A, 8A or 9A.

The conversion is useful because climbers travel, gyms use different systems, and videos or guidebooks often reference grades from different regions. A climber who normally projects V6 may want to know what that means in Fontainebleau grades before visiting a gym in France or reading about a famous European boulder.

But conversion is not exact. Grades are not measured with a ruler. They are community estimates of difficulty, built from consensus, experience and comparison.

V-scale vs Fontainebleau grades

Important distinction: Fontainebleau bouldering grades are not the same as French sport climbing grades, even though they look similar. A Font 7A boulder and a French 7a route describe different types of climbing effort.

Why bouldering grade conversions are always approximate

A bouldering grade is a difficulty opinion that becomes stronger when more climbers repeat the problem. It is not a fixed physical measurement. This is why conversion charts are helpful, but never perfect.

• Style changes difficulty. A V6 slab, V6 compression problem and V6 crimp ladder can feel completely different.
• Body size matters. Reach, height, finger size and hip mobility can change how a problem feels.
• Conditions matter. Temperature, humidity, skin and friction can make the same boulder feel easier or harder.
• Areas have local grading cultures. Some gyms or outdoor zones are known to feel soft, stiff or old-school.
• Consensus takes time. Hard boulders may need many repeats before the grade settles.

How to use a bouldering conversion chart wisely

Use the chart as a map, not a verdict. It is useful for orientation, but your climbing experience will still depend on style and setting.

• When traveling: use conversions to choose a reasonable starting range at a new gym or crag.
• When watching videos: use conversions to understand the difficulty of international climbs.
• When training: track style, not only grade. A hard slab and a steep board problem build different qualities.
• When comparing gyms: expect gym grades to vary more than outdoor consensus grades.
• When projecting: do not let the number decide whether the climb is worth trying.

Beginner, intermediate, advanced: what the grades feel like

Grade charts are easier to understand when you connect the numbers to real climbing experience. The ranges below are broad, but they help explain progression.

Why gym grades can feel different from outdoor grades

Indoor bouldering grades are useful, but they can be less consistent than outdoor grades. Gyms reset often, route setters have different styles, holds are newer or older, and the purpose of a commercial gym is not always strict grade consensus.

Some gyms use broad circuits. Some use color circuits where one color covers several grades. Some set softer to encourage progression, while others set stiff to match a strong local community. This is why a V5 in one gym can feel like V3 or V7 somewhere else.

Outdoor grades are not perfect either, but classic boulders often have more community consensus over time. Even then, old-school areas, morpho climbs and condition-dependent problems can still surprise you.

Common grade terms climbers use

Understanding conversion also means understanding how climbers talk about grades in real life.

• Soft: a problem feels easier than the grade suggests.
• Stiff: a problem feels harder than the grade suggests.
• Sandbag: a climb that feels seriously undergraded.
• Morpho: difficulty changes a lot based on body size or reach.
• Benchmark: a well-known problem often used to compare difficulty.
• Consensus grade: the grade most climbers agree on after enough repeats.

For more climbing vocabulary, use our climbing terms glossary.

How to train using bouldering grades

Grades can guide training, but they should not control everything. If you only chase higher numbers, you may avoid weaknesses and repeat the style you already like. Better training uses grades as one signal among several.

• Easy volume: climb many problems below your limit to improve efficiency and movement vocabulary.
• Limit bouldering: try a small number of very hard problems with long rest and high-quality attempts.
• Weakness sessions: choose grades that are manageable but in a style you avoid.
• Project sessions: work one or two hard problems, refine beta and track progress.
• Deload weeks: reduce intensity and volume so you can absorb training.

If you want to build this into a plan, read our complete climbing training plan.

What grade conversion misses about performance

A chart can tell you that V8 roughly matches a certain Font range. It cannot tell you why you fell. That is the real performance question.

Maybe you need more finger strength. Maybe you need better foot tension. Maybe you read the sequence badly. Maybe the problem is your anti-style. Maybe the holds were greasy or your skin was gone. Grades flatten all of that into one number.

This is why serious climbers track more than grade. They track hold type, wall angle, number of attempts, rest time, conditions, skin, sleep and what actually limited the send.

High-end grades: V16, V17 and V18

At the very top end, bouldering grades become harder to stabilize because very few climbers can repeat the problems. A new proposed grade may take years to receive enough repeats for strong consensus.

V16 is already world class. V17 is among the highest confirmed levels in the sport. V18 is discussed at the extreme edge of modern bouldering and is often associated with Font 9A+ in conversion charts.

For a dedicated explanation of the top-end grade, see our guide to V18 bouldering.

Training support

Where Unlevel Edge fits into grade progression

As bouldering grades rise, finger strength and healthy loading often become more important. That does not mean every climber needs to hang from tiny edges every day. It means finger training should be more controlled, more progressive and better matched to the climber.

Unlevel Edge is a custom-made hangboard designed around individual finger lengths. The goal is to place the joints in a stronger and more ergonomic position during warm-ups and controlled finger strength sessions.

You can learn how the product works on Unlevel Edge for climbing, or prepare your setup with the finger measuring guide.

Bouldering rating conversion FAQ

Train beyond the grade

Build finger strength with more control

Grades help you measure progression, but better climbing comes from better training. Unlevel Edge is designed around your individual finger lengths to support more ergonomic warm-ups and finger strength sessions.