Unlevel Edge for Climbing: How It Works

Your fingers aren’t flat, and your climbing edge shouldn't be either. The Unlevel Edge is a custom fingerboard designed to enhance your climbing training by increasing finger strength and improving grip performance.

The Problem With Traditional Climbing Hangboards 

Most climbing hangboards use a single, flat edge. Since finger lengths and sizes differ, each finger endures uneven load during climbing training, leading to increased tension and compromised performance:

• Overuse of the middle fingers
• Under-recruitment of the pinky and index
• Uneven tension across joints and pulleys
• Higher injury risk over time
• Suboptimal adaptation of connective tissue that limits progress

The Unlevel Edge Climbing Solution 

Unlevel Edge is the first climbing fingerboard engineered around your individual finger anatomy, enhancing grip performance. We match the vertical offset between your PIP joints so every finger sits in a neutral, biomechanically strong position while you hang for climbing, optimizing force distribution and training efficiency.

How Unlevel Edge Climbing Works 

1. Measure your hand width and finger proportions accurately by considering key variables (see How to Measure).
2. We design a custom edge with varying sizes and depths to add challenge and ensure each finger rests at the optimal height.
3. You hang: load is shared equally across all fingers, joints stay neutral, and deep tissue adapts safely under consistent tension—ideal for improving climbing performance.
4. Versatile grip options: Train on incut edges, slopers, or adjust the positioning to recruit smaller fingers, making your training harder and more effective—all possible with the adaptable design of Unlevel edges. This flexibility ensures both maximum strength training and rehab protocols are supported.

Results for climbers: improved force production and grip strength, lower fatigue, enhanced connective-tissue adaptation, and overall better climbing performance.

One Climbing Edge To Rull Them All

Use it for climbing rehab, warm-ups, max hangs, endurance work, or to adjust training variables. Unlevel Edge helps you train every finger efficiently—with more control and less risk. Additionally, the edge is designed with versatile hold options to enhance grip strength and reduce irritation associated with tendinosis-type injuries, making it a valuable tool for both recovery and sustained climbing performance.

Custom by Design (Built for Climbers) 

• Built from your actual measurements for a precise climbing fit that accounts for finger size and strength.
• Two high-quality materials: Carbon PLA & Wood PLA, with textured options designed to mimic traditional wood, marble, and granite surfaces—ensuring optimal grip and friction during training sessions.
• Compact, lightweight, and portable for training anywhere, anytime.
• Designed by expert climbers, for climbers, ensuring the best performance and functionality.

Ready to Try Unlevel Edge for Climbing? 

Start on How to Measure to send your hand data, or join the waitlist—we’ll guide you through every step. Elevate your training outcomes with innovative designs that maximize muscle recruitment safely and minimize injury risks.

FAQ

What is an unlevel edge in climbing training and how does it differ from a regular edge?

An unlevel edge in climbing training is a fingerboard edge with varied heights for each finger, compensating for finger length differences to promote a half-crimp on all fingers. This distributes load evenly, improving muscle recruitment and reducing injury risk compared to a flat, regular edge where finger loading is uneven .

How do unlevel edges help reduce finger injuries compared to traditional flat edges?

Unlevel edges reduce finger injuries by eliminating the typical flat surface that can cause fingers to be caught or pinched. Their uneven profile disrupts the closing motion, preventing crushing or shearing points that flat edges create. This innovative design reduces injury risk by preventing fingers from being trapped or slammed in the door gap .

Can unlevel edge holds improve climbing finger strength and grip ergonomics, and if so, how?

Unlevel edge holds can improve climbing finger strength and grip ergonomics by evenly distributing load across all fingers despite their different lengths, enhancing muscle recruitment by about 15-25%, and encouraging a straighter finger-hand-wrist alignment. This reduces stress on individual fingers, lowers injury risk, and supports independent finger strength development. Customized unlevel edges tailor training to hand anatomy for maximum benefit .

What are some key features or design elements included in unlevel edges to promote comfort and effective training?

Unlevel edges feature a non-flat top face, either stepped or smoothly curved, to promote an active grip and reduce wrist over-wrapping. They include ergonomic bumps to distribute force evenly across fingers, enhancing comfort and aiding injury prevention. Consistent edge depth and front radius maintain training effectiveness while prioritizing comfort .