The knot that ties you to the rope is the most safety critical knot you will ever tie. For most climbers, that knot is the figure eight follow through, and for good reason: it is easy to learn, easy to teach, and easy to check at a glance. But there is a well known alternative that you will see on the harnesses of many experienced sport climbers, especially those throwing themselves at hard redpoints. That knot is the double bowline.
This guide explains what the double bowline is, why some climbers prefer it as a tie-in, how it compares to the figure eight, and the safety rules that make it trustworthy. A quick word of honesty up front: knots are a life safety topic, and reading an article is not a substitute for hands on instruction. Learn any tie-in knot from a qualified instructor and have it checked before you climb on it.
What is the double bowline?
The bowline is one of the oldest and most useful loop knots, sometimes called the king of knots. It creates a fixed loop at the end of a rope and, unlike many knots, it stays relatively easy to untie even after it has held a heavy load. The double bowline is a close cousin: instead of passing the working end through a single turn, you pass it through a double turn, two wraps of rope. That extra wrap adds friction and security.
For climbing, that added security matters. A standard bowline can be prone to working loose, particularly with modern ropes that are stiff, slick, or new. The double bowline holds its shape better under those conditions, which is one reason climbers who choose a bowline style tie-in usually reach for the double version rather than the simple one.
Why some climbers use it as a tie-in
The headline advantage is simple: a double bowline is far easier to untie after big falls than a figure eight. When you fall repeatedly on a project, a figure eight cinches down hard. After a long redpoint session it can become so welded that picking it apart is a genuine chore, and in extreme cases climbers have had to resort to cutting a fused knot off the rope. The double bowline sidesteps that problem, loosening with a simple push even after it has caught hard falls.
Two situations bring out its appeal:
- Projecting and hard redpointing. Lots of falls means lots of cinching, and an easy to untie knot saves time and frustration between burns.
- High volume indoor sessions. When you are tying in and out repeatedly, a knot that unties quickly speeds up the whole session.
If terms like redpoint, onsight, and flash are still new to you, our climbing terms glossary breaks them down in plain English.
The non-negotiable: always back it up
Here is the catch, and it is a big one. The bowline family has a known weakness: it can shake loose when it is not under load, and if tied or dressed incorrectly it can capsize into a slip knot, which is exactly what you do not want at your tie-in point. The way climbers manage this risk is with a backup, a stopper knot tied in the tail and cinched down tight against the main knot.
A common and trusted approach is to finish a standard or double bowline with a backup stopper, such as a double overhand tied around the loop, pulled snug. Cinching both the bowline and the backup down firmly is what keeps the system secure. Some climbers instead use a Yosemite finish, where the tail is woven back through the knot, but that variation is notoriously easy to dress incorrectly, and a mis-tied Yosemite finish can be more dangerous than no finish at all. For most people, a clean double bowline with a solid backup stopper is the simpler and safer choice.
The principle is absolute: a double bowline without a properly tightened backup is not an acceptable tie-in. Treat the backup as part of the knot, not an optional extra.
How the double bowline is tied
The description below is to help you follow along with proper instruction, not to replace it. Tie this under the eye of someone who already knows it well.
- Thread the rope through both harness tie-in points the same way you would for a figure eight.
- Form a loop in the standing rope with a double turn, two wraps rather than one.
- Pass the working end up through that double loop from underneath.
- Take the working end around behind the standing rope, then back down through the same double loop.
- Dress the knot so the wraps sit neatly side by side with no crossed strands, then tighten it firmly.
- Tie a backup stopper in the tail, snug it against the main knot, and leave a sensible length of tail.
Then do the two things that matter most: dress it so you can clearly see the knot is correct, and tighten everything down hard. A loose, messy bowline is where danger lives.
Double bowline versus figure eight
Neither knot is simply better. They trade strengths.
- Ease of untying: the double bowline wins comfortably, especially after repeated hard falls.
- Ease of inspection: the figure eight wins. It is symmetrical and almost every climber can check it instantly. A bowline takes more knowledge to inspect, and there are several bowline variants that look similar but behave differently.
- Familiarity: the figure eight is universal, so your partner can always double check it. Not everyone knows the bowline well enough to catch a mistake.
- Strength: testing suggests the bowline is somewhat weaker than the figure eight, often cited in the range of ten to twenty percent. In practice this is rarely the limiting factor in climbing, but it does mean the bowline leans more on its backup for security.
- Forgiveness of error: the figure eight is more forgiving and more obviously wrong when mis-tied. The bowline can look almost right while being unsafe.
This is why the figure eight follow through remains the recommended tie-in for beginners and intermediates, while the double bowline is best treated as a tool for advanced climbers who have taken the time to master it.
Safety habits for every tie-in
Whichever knot you choose, the habits that keep climbers safe are the same, and they have been learned the hard way. Even very experienced climbers have been seriously hurt by a tie-in knot that was left unfinished or poorly dressed, usually because of a distraction. Build a routine and never skip it:
- Complete the knot fully before you do anything else, with no interruptions.
- Dress it so every strand sits where it should.
- Tighten the main knot and the backup firmly.
- Leave an adequate tail.
- Do a partner check every single time, both climber and belayer.
Who should use the double bowline?
If you are newer to climbing, stick with the figure eight follow through until it is second nature and you can inspect it without thinking. The double bowline earns its place for experienced climbers who project hard, take a lot of falls, and want to save their fingers and patience from picking apart a welded figure eight. Even then, it only belongs on your harness once you can tie and dress it correctly every time and back it up without fail.
Frequently asked questions
Is the double bowline safe for climbing?
Yes, when it is tied correctly, dressed cleanly, tightened firmly, and finished with a properly cinched backup stopper. Without that backup, or if it is mis-tied, it is not safe. It demands more knowledge and care than a figure eight.
Double bowline or figure eight, which is better?
Neither is universally better. The figure eight is easier to teach, inspect, and check, which makes it the standard for most climbers. The double bowline is easier to untie after hard falls, which is why advanced sport climbers favour it for projecting.
Do I really need a backup knot?
Yes. The bowline family can work loose when unloaded or capsize if mis-tied, so a tightened backup stopper is an essential part of the tie-in, not an optional extra.
Why does the double bowline untie more easily than a figure eight?
Its structure does not weld together under repeated loading the way a figure eight does, so it stays loosenable with a simple push even after catching big falls.
Can beginners use the double bowline?
It is not recommended for beginners. It is easier to tie incorrectly and harder to inspect, so newer climbers are far better served by mastering the figure eight follow through first.
Safety disclaimer: climbing is dangerous and knot failure can be fatal. This article is educational and is not a substitute for hands on instruction. Learn and verify any tie-in knot with a qualified instructor, and always perform partner checks.
Tied in and ready to send? A secure knot keeps you on the rope, but on a hard redpoint the next limiter is almost always finger strength. When you are off the wall, build that strength with controlled, progressive loading on the Unlevel Edge hangboard, so the only thing holding you back is the moves, not your fingers.