The Matterhorn is the most recognizable mountain in the Alps: a near perfect pyramid of rock and ice rising 4,478 meters (14,692 feet) above sea level on the border between Switzerland and Italy. It towers over Zermatt on the Swiss side and Breuil-Cervinia on the Italian side, and its first ascent in 1865 is one of the defining stories of mountaineering. This guide covers the mountain itself, its history, its four ridges and faces, what it takes to climb the normal route, how to train for it, and the best ways to see it without climbing.
Matterhorn facts at a glance
- Height: 4,478 meters (14,692 feet) above sea level.
- Location: Pennine Alps, on the border of Switzerland and Italy, between the Swiss canton of Valais and the Italian Aosta Valley.
- Other names: Cervino in Italian, Cervin in French.
- First ascent: July 14, 1865, by Edward Whymper's party via the Hörnli ridge.
- Normal routes: the Hörnli ridge from Zermatt and the Lion ridge from the Italian side.
- Base towns: Zermatt in Switzerland and Breuil-Cervinia in Italy.
Where is the Matterhorn?
The Matterhorn stands on the main chain of the Alps, right on the border of Switzerland and Italy. To the north, the slopes drop into the valley of Zermatt, a car free mountain village that has grown around the peak's fame. To the south, the peak looks down on Breuil-Cervinia in the Valtournenche valley. Between the two lies the Theodul Pass, an old glacier crossing used by traders long before anyone thought of climbing to the top.
Because the peak is so isolated, its shape changes dramatically with the viewpoint. From Zermatt you see the steep north face and the east face meeting at the Hörnli ridge, the classic profile on postcards. From Italy, the peak looks broader and more rugged, with the Lion ridge rising in steps toward the summit.
The history of the first ascent
By the early 1860s, most of the great Alpine peaks had been climbed, but the Matterhorn still looked impossible. Edward Whymper, a young English engraver, made repeated attempts between 1861 and 1865, often with the Italian guide Jean-Antoine Carrel. Carrel wanted a compatriot to be first on top, and the two men became rivals: Carrel focused on the southwest approach, while Whymper turned his attention to Switzerland.
In July 1865, Whymper joined forces with the Chamonix guide Michel Croz, the Zermatt guides Peter Taugwalder father and son, the Reverend Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, and the young Douglas Robert Hadow. The party climbed the Hörnli ridge, and at 1:40 pm on July 14, 1865, Whymper and Croz reached the summit first. Carrel's party was still far below on the opposite crest.
The descent turned the triumph into the most famous tragedy in climbing history. Hadow slipped, knocked Croz off his feet, and pulled Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas with him. The rope between Douglas and Peter Taugwalder senior broke, and four men fell down the north face to the Matterhorn Glacier. Whymper and both Taugwalders survived. An official inquiry found no evidence that the rope had been cut. Three days later, on July 17, 1865, Jean-Antoine Carrel and Jean-Baptiste Bich reached the top from Breuil.
The north face, one of the three great north faces of the Alps, waited until 1931, when the brothers Franz and Toni Schmid climbed it over July 31 and August 1. For more classic alpine history, read our guides to Fitz Roy and climbing El Capitan.
The four ridges and four faces
The Matterhorn has four faces, north, east, south, and west, separated by four ridges. Each one is a route in its own right:
- Hörnli ridge (northeast): the Swiss normal route and the line of the first ascent. It starts at the Hörnli Hut at 3,260 meters above Zermatt.
- Lion ridge (southwest): the normal route from Breuil, first climbed by Carrel, with fixed ropes on its steepest steps.
- Zmutt ridge (northwest): a longer, more serious and less traveled line, graded D by the Swiss Alpine Club.
- Furggen ridge (southeast): the hardest of the four, with steep and loose ground on the upper section.
The east face rises directly above the Hörnli ridge and is exposed to rockfall, which is why climbers stay on the crest. The north face is a serious alpine route on rock, snow, and ice, reserved for experienced alpinists.
Climbing the Matterhorn: the Hörnli ridge
Most people who stand on top of the Matterhorn get there by the Hörnli ridge with a certified mountain guide. On its route portal, the Swiss Alpine Club grades both the Hörnli ridge and the Lion ridge AD+ (fairly difficult) and recommends them only for experienced, well trained alpinists in good physical condition. The ascent from the Hörnli Hut gains about 1,200 meters and usually takes four to five hours, and the descent takes about as long.
The technical difficulty is moderate by modern rock climbing standards, but the context is what makes the climb serious. You climb continuously for eight to ten hours at altitude, often in the dark at the start, on rock that is loose in places and covered with snow and ice near the summit. Fixed ropes help on the upper sections, and the Solvay Hut at 4,003 meters serves as an emergency shelter only. Up to 150 climbers attempt the peak each day in summer, so queues and falling stones from parties above are a real hazard.
The season usually runs from July to September, when the rock is mostly dry. Guides in Zermatt typically ask clients to prove their fitness and skills on a training peak first, and many will not take a client up without a successful acclimatization climb. The peak also has a sobering record: more than 500 climbers have died on it since 1865, mostly on the descent, which is why moving efficiently and turning around on time matter as much as topping out.
What it takes to climb the Matterhorn
Skills
You need to move confidently on exposed rock in mountain boots, climb in crampons on mixed snow and ice, and down climb steep ground quickly. Experience with short roping, belaying, and rappelling is essential. If you come from the gym, build those skills step by step with our rock climbing lessons guide, then gain outdoor experience on traditional climbing routes and Alpine arêtes. Learn the knots, starting with the figure 8 knot, and the vocabulary in our climbing terms glossary.
Fitness
Endurance is the main physical limit. A guided ascent means a long day of sustained effort above 3,500 meters, so climbers prepare with months of uphill hiking, stair work, and long days in the mountains. Our mountain climbing workout explains how to build an aerobic base and uphill strength, and our climbing endurance training article covers sustained effort on rock.
Grip matters too. You hold rock, fixed ropes, and cold holds for hours, often with gloves. Regular hangboard training on large, comfortable edges builds the finger and forearm capacity that keeps you secure late in the day, and a structured rock climbing training plan ties it all together.
Gear
The standard kit includes mountain boots compatible with crampons, a helmet, a harness, a light ice axe, warm layers, and gloves. Your guide usually brings the rope. See our mountain climbing gear guide for a full list, our ice climbing gear guide for crampons and axes, and our best approach shoes for the walk to the hut.
Seeing the Matterhorn without climbing it
You do not need to stand on top to experience the Matterhorn. The region around Zermatt is built for viewing it:
- Matterhorn Glacier Paradise: the cable car station at 3,883 meters offers a view of 38 peaks over 4,000 meters, 14 glaciers, and three countries.
- Matterhorn Alpine Crossing: since July 1, 2023, a cable car link connects Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia via the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise and Testa Grigia, crossing the border at about 3,480 meters. It is described as the highest cable car crossing in the Alps.
- Rothorn and Schwarzsee: the Rothorn at 3,202 meters is often called the best viewpoint, and at Schwarzsee the peak rises almost vertically above the lake.
- Hiking to the Hörnli Hut: fit hikers can walk from Schwarzsee to the hut at the foot of the climb for a close look at the route.
The peak's fame has spread far beyond Switzerland. Disneyland in California opened its Matterhorn Bobsleds ride, built inside a replica of the peak, on June 14, 1959, and performers still climb the artificial peak during the day.
Conclusion
The Matterhorn is a symbol of Switzerland and of mountaineering itself: a striking pyramid, a dramatic first ascent, and a normal route that is accessible to fit, trained climbers with a good guide. Whether you dream of standing on top or simply want to watch the sunrise light the east face from Zermatt, prepare well. For climbers, that means years of alpine experience, solid skills on rock, snow, and ice, and the endurance to climb for a full day. For visitors, it means choosing the right viewpoint and a clear day.
FAQ
How tall is the Matterhorn?
The Matterhorn is 4,478 meters (14,692 feet) above sea level. It is not the highest peak in the Alps, but its isolated pyramid shape makes it the most famous.
What country is the Matterhorn in?
The Matterhorn sits on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Zermatt is the base in Switzerland, and Breuil-Cervinia is the base in Italy.
Who first climbed the Matterhorn?
Edward Whymper's party reached the summit on July 14, 1865, via the Hörnli ridge. Four of the seven men died on the descent. Jean-Antoine Carrel and Jean-Baptiste Bich reached the summit from Italy three days later.
Can a beginner climb the Matterhorn?
No. Even with a guide, the normal route requires solid experience on Alpine rock, snow, and ice, excellent fitness, and acclimatization. Most guides ask clients to complete a training climb first.
The Matterhorn demands grip that lasts for hours on cold rock and fixed ropes. Build it on an ergonomic edge.
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