Every climber reaches a point where the next hold is simply too far to reach statically. This guide covers what a dyno is, the types you'll encounter, the physics that make them work, and how to train them.
What is a dyno in climbing?
A dyno is a dynamic move in which a climber generates momentum to reach a hold that cannot be reached statically. At its most committed it involves leaving the wall entirely — both hands and feet off simultaneously — before catching the target. That full disconnection separates a true dyno from a dynamic reach or slap. If some of this vocabulary is new, our climbing terms glossary is a good starting point.
Types of dynos
Jump to target with one hand. More precise — only one hand catches the load.
Both hands leave and catch simultaneously. More forgiving on less positive holds — the classic competition dyno.
Catch an intermediate hold, then immediately redirect momentum to the real target. Advanced technique.
When opening holds are too poor to generate momentum from static. Run, kick off, jump to target.
The physics behind a dyno
The deadpoint is the apex of your movement when upward velocity reaches zero and your body is momentarily weightless. A 2010 biomechanics study by Fuss and Niegl found that contacting the hold slightly before the apex produced the highest success rates. Aim an inch higher than the hold and connect while still rising.
Angular momentum. Once airborne, your centre of mass swings outward after the catch. Counter this with the “scorpion”: arch your lower back and drive both heels backward and apart. This fights the barn-door swing.
Leg drive. The power comes almost entirely from your legs. Arms guide and keep you close to the wall; legs provide the spring. Load the driving foot, preload the knees deep, then explode. Arms that pull too early break the chain.
Common mistakes
Pumping before launch. Swinging up and down wastes energy. Commit to one clean launch from a deep position.
Pulling arms first. Initiating with arms breaks the kinetic chain. Let the legs drive.
Not fixing your gaze. Look at a specific point on the target and keep eyes there through launch. Your hand follows your eyes.
Catching too late. Waiting until the apex or while falling spikes finger load. Aim high, connect early.
How to train dynos
Pull into dyno position and drive upward without leaving the wall. Tap as high as possible. Progress to releasing.
Bounce both hands to jugs above then drop to jugs below. Shift hips away and back for near-weightlessness. 5 reps x 3 sets, 3 min rest.
Start within reach and increase the gap over sessions, building contact strength alongside coordination.
Box jumps, squat jumps, and explosive pull-ups build the leg power and contact strength for the catch.
For climbers training on a board, our rock climbing board guide covers power training protocols in depth.
Warming up for dynos
Dynos spike force on fingers, tendons, and shoulders. Start with easy movement on large holds, progress to moderate dynamic problems, and only attempt true dynos once fully warm. Finger-specific warm-ups and shoulder mobility work pay dividends over a long season.
Dynos in competition climbing
Dynos are now central to how World Cup and Olympic bouldering problems are set — testing power, timing, and body awareness that cannot be replicated with pure strength. See our bouldering grades guide for context on where dynos appear on the grade spectrum.
Frequently asked questions
A dyno involves full disconnection from the wall. A deadpoint is a controlled dynamic reach to the apex, typically keeping at least one foot on. Deadpoints are subtler; dynos are more all-in.
Arch your lower back and drive your heels back on landing. Catching with two hands distributes the swing load.
Yes. Shorter climbers often become strong dynos by necessity, using high feet to maximize the extension phase of the legs.
Catching at or just before the deadpoint keeps loads manageable. Good warm-up and gradual progression reduce risk significantly. See our A2 pulley injury guide.
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